CULTURAL NOTES

Jim Cunningham Cultural Notes Autumn 2009

As new catalogues arrive, you will again be tempted to purchase. They are meant to entertain and delight; you can relax and enjoy good reading and beautiful photographs. They are designed in a way to get rosarians and the general public aroused enough to buy their roses. While rose catalogues are not intended to be fiction, they are not very good text books.

Swane’s new catalogue has some good “MedalWinners” in their new releases. What caught my eye was “Fire Fighter”. This award winner from the trial grounds in South Australia is stunning.  This rose is vigorous, upright growth of around two meters; the rich red rose sits firmly on long straight stems. It is amongst the most powerfully perfumed rose ever to cross my nostrils. Always check with someone who grows what you are interested in, better still look at it growing in a garden and assess it yourself. Good luck with the roses of your choice. Fire Fighter is on display at Swanes in the garden at Dural.

The rose of today differs greatly from its ancestors. We can thank the skilled efforts of the hybridist for this turn around. The large flowered rose is still the most popular rose growing today, with its vigorous growth, much improved disease resistance, strong stems, increased fragrance and a range of undreamt colourings. They say the “BLUE ROSE” will be commercially available in 2010; it will have to be a big improvement to what rambling rosarians observed in Osaka a few short years ago.

Roses look best grouped or massed, much more effective than scattered in various locations. Beds should be no wider than necessary for two rows of plants so that maintenance can be done from both sides preferably or from pathways without treading on the beds. Plants should be easily accessed for cutting blooms, spraying, watering etc., or for admiring at your leisure.

An open area is more preferable than sites sheltered or shaded by fences, trees or buildings. At least half of the available sunshine should reach your plants daily.

Early preparation of your area is essential; the beds should be ready for planting long before your plants arrive. A fertile, well cultivated soil is the key to healthy and high quality roses. Roses will not thrive in poorly drained and badly aerated soils.

Soil preparation should be to a depth of around 50cm. of good soil. Rotted manures and good compost should be used to improve nutrient retention, drainage and soil moisture. Approximately one third organic material by volume is recommended. Horse stable combinations of manure, bits of lucerne, wood shavings and urine are excellent. Worried that manures will be too hot? Let me tell you to forget it. Mixed in the soil and reasonably moist, this warm cocktail will force feeder root growth, no problem for bare rooted or potted roses. Hot manures do not have to be composted if mixed in the soil.

A common mistake which can cause failure or poor performance of roses are: last minute soil preparation, planting in shade or poorly drained soil, planting too deeply or faulty planting, neglect of rose hygiene and disease control, pruning with blunt tools. Companion planting can contribute nothing to a rose’s welfare in fact they compete with them for nutrients.

Now is a good time to remove any passengers in your garden, remove as much roots as possible in all directions to prevent suckering in the spring months.

Pests cause very few problems in autumn months, a misting of blooms should be sufficient for control.

Continue your preventative maintenance schedule to keep your foliage clean and green. Don’t let fungus ruin your autumn flush of roses.

Remember to water established field grown roses in prolonged drought and roses in pots daily, or as necessary.

Always maintain weed control throughout the growing season. Weed by hand around the root zone to avoid any damage to fragile feeding roots. A well mulched bed should avoid this chore.

Any unproductive stem or stems lacking vigour can be removed in autumn, be sure to remove them from their point of origin leaving no stubs (hat racks) for pests or diseases to harbour in over winter. Shorten long shoots on climbers, trim back long stems on bush roses to reduce wind rock in late autumn.

Collect and burn if possible deadwood, fallen leaves and any other rubbish, especially that affected by disease.

Water shoots that have flowered can have the stakes removed and stock piled. Ties on tree roses and climbers should be checked and replaced as required. Remember one tie only is needed on tree roses.

Don’t hesitate too long to place your “MAIL ORDER” for the bare rooted roses of your choice. Australian bred roses are becoming more popular, give some thought to these when ordering.

No more fertilizing of roses is necessary from mid autumn; this should encourage dormancy and harden the stems for winter pruning.

As the years slip past, my garden diary has become an invaluable asset keeping me in touch with the great hobby of growing roses for all occasions. My first rose bought “DOWN UNDER” was Sutters Gold, my diary answered this. My point is; a diary is a handy way for rosarians to keep track of what is planted and when, what you sprayed and when. Even if you can remember what you did last month a diary record will prove of great value as you look back on the rose growing season and ahead to next year.

During these cooler months the super slow opening blooms of the highest quality, with intense fragrance and vibrant colours should be in all gardens. Great pleasure can be had sharing with friends and decorating your dining areas with fresh fragrant roses over the Easter period. Further enjoyment can be had visiting the many rose shows at this time of year. Dates for your diary are in this magazine.

Happy rose growing to all rosarians.

Jim Cunningham

Jim Cunningham Cultural Notes Autumn 2008
 This has been a testing summer for our roses. Rain and more rain was dumped relentlessly on our gardens. Hail the size of golf balls shredded the foliage, new water shoots reduced to pulp as they dangled from most of the bushes. Sadly my weeping tree rose “CREPUSCULE’ could not withstand the thrashing from the inclement weather. Even the rose ring and rose ring support had indentations from the “HAIL”; Crepuscule would have had its centenary in two years time, amen.  Despite the very wet conditions these plants are bouncing back. Lush new growth is very promising; a bumper crop of roses can be expected in autumn.
 
It is very possible no more watering will be required for field grown roses this season. Having moved the saturated thick mulch and checking several areas of subsoil, I am satisfied enough moisture content is available to sustain good growth through the autumn.
When planning a new rose garden, consideration to the end product is essential. Every time you plant your boot on the rose bed it would be similar to nine (9) on the “Richter Scale” to the activity down under. The very beneficial micro-organisms and especially macro-organisms (earthworms), close to the soil surface detest soil disturbance. No bed should be more than two meters in width when viewed all round. This allows maintenance (arms length) and a happy environment in the soil. Plenty of open space that receives lots of sun is very important. The soil should be enriched adding plenty of good compost. Make sure the drainage is sufficient before you even think about preparing the soil. In my situation, every bed was elevated to the required height; this eliminates all drainage problems permanently.
 
The planning and planting of these beds can take considerable time, not to mention your energy.  Once the beds become established, routine maintenance becomes a simple task. Cool autumn weather is a good time to make any alterations in your garden.
 
As you become motivated shop around for suitable material to do the job. Don’t be shy to ask any questions to your supplier. Most nursery people are happy to give advice on their products. Your local regional will advise on planting or choice of plants for your area.
As new rose catalogues come in the letter box listing hundreds of excellent varieties, and more new releases to confuse us further, choosing roses can become a pleasant and sometimes a bewildering experience. Chose with care, advice and guidance is available from your nearest consulting rosarian.
 
Among the releases from “Swanes” is a rose named “Good Samaritan”. This rose has been monitored on my patch over a six month period with very little care. It is large flowered and deep pink in colour. The long pointed buds have good form on long stems, fragrance is slight. It’s resistance to disease is promising as is its growth. This hybrid comes from “Dr. Keith Zary”, who also gave us Moonstone, Gemini and City of Newcastle to name a few. I think it is a worthy addition to your garden. Another “look at me” release from Tom Carruths is a rose called “My Hero”. This could be on the show bench in the near future in the decorative class. Remember to watch for good Australian bred roses coming your way this season. Good luck in your decisions this season.
Check for any pests hovering around your roses. Any small infestation can be checked by nipping off the affected parts, or by squashing pests by hand. When used properly most chemical sprays cause very few problems to the environment and are very effective in controlling pests. Always assess whether the problem really justifies their use. The use of combined insecticide and fungicide is only required when both problems are present at levels that warrant that control. When you are sure the chemical suits the purpose, be sure to follow the manufactures instructions to the application rate. A good time to spray is early morning when most beneficial insects are not active.  Maintain weed control during the growing season, heavy mulching usually controls this chore.  Trim back long stems on bush and shrub roses to reduce wind rock pre pruning.  Collect and burn (where possible) dead wood, fallen leaves and other debris especially that affected with disease.
 
Continue to harvest leaves from deciduous trees for use in your compost. Deciduous leaves and fresh grass clippings mixed equally can be a very nutritious mulch in early spring. If you are not already a “leaf freak” now is the time to start.
 
It is time to cut a vase of roses “Kardinal” for the dining table.  This rose stands frequent cutting and still blooms freely and repeats quickly over a long period. This rose is very hardy with good sized flowers in dark red, strong stems of good length sets the scene.  Enjoy your autumn flush of roses and take care. Happy rose growing to all rosarians.

Jim Cunningham



Jim Cunningham Cultural Notes Spring 2007
After some very heavy rainfall in our winter months, you are sure to enjoy our beautiful spring climate.

Lush new growth is evident on our bushes, foliage is expanding and buds are getting fatter. Be patient with newly planted roses, remove spent blooms at the first node, continue this practise by retaining as much foliage during the first growing year.

Your plants will soak up large quantities of water as the growth becomes stronger. Practise deep watering on a weekly basis to get surface nutrients to the feeding roots; this is where the action takes place. Deep watering will also encourage better anchorage of bushes and less easily damaged surface roots. Presuming you have good drainage, your roses will accept copious amounts of water as the weather hots up and your bushes are fully clothed. Accepting the fact that roots can only take up nutrients in a soluble form, water has to be the worlds greatest "FERTILIZER". It makes no difference how much or how often you feed your bushes, they will starve if no water is received.

Watering plants in pots is important, plants in a confined space cannot send out feeding roots in search of nutrients or moisture. Many people use liquid manure in watering pots, this smelly process has some advantages, I prefer to err on the safe side and use "Compost Tea". Compost tea also gives your potted roses a good supply of nutrients in a liquid form. This brew can be used on newly planted roses or seedlings with no risk to the tender feeding roots. Compost tea as a foliar feed is very effective no matter how strong the brew. If you have an abundance of compost you can afford to be generous with it as a mulch. But if you never have enough, big benefits can be gained by this compost brew. It is good to start this pot maintenance routine early spring, and then the first weekend of every month up to and including April. Keep the pots well mulched with any organic material to help retain moisture and maintain a steady temperature. During hot weather your pots might need watering daily.
Compost tea can be made in any clean drum or large bucket. Simply fill one fifth of the container with well made compost and four fifths of clean water, how simple is that. You can stir this brew whenever you want. After a couple of weeks, dip your watering can into the container and use as required. You can use the same batch of compost to make five or six brews. Before making your next batch, remove the sludge from the container and use on seedlings or house plants.

Any stockpiled leaf mulch should be spread on your rose beds. If you could add one part manure to five parts leaf mould to your plants, your rose will receive nearly all the nutrients they require in the growing season. The addition of manure keeps the carbon nitrogen ratio fairly stable, and prevents matting of the leaves. This forest type mulch is very beneficial to the soil. The chemical break-down of rotted leaves "LEAF MOLD", as we know it, is as close to natural "HUMUS" that you will get. Any organic mulching will benefit your soil; try to keep the mulch at least 10cm thick, the deeper the better. The material used should be friable to allow water and air to penetrate, offering no resistance.

A well mulched garden produces healthy soil and vigorous, disease resistant plants.
Early prevention of fungal germination on roses is a necessary duty. As temperatures hover in the mid-twenties, and foliage has not matured or it still expanding, commence your spray routine. Your first fungicide spray should be very early spring, followed by a second spray ten days later. A third spray fourteen days later should stop any chance of spore germination of occurring. Try alternating sprays as the seasons change. Remember to spray the rose beds while you are motivated. Some new fungicides in smaller quantities are now available at reputable "PRODUCE" stores.

Keep a watch for pests. Aphids are sure to arrive, these sap sucking insects can weaken your bushes. Easy to use environmental sprays will stop them before they cause any damage.
Hot dry weather will encourage spider mites to your bushes. If left untreated they will go to plague proportions and quickly defoliate your rose bush. They usually start at the bottom, and rapidly move upwards sucking every drop of sap on their way. Some tell tale signs are foliage that looks sand-blasted or minute webbing on stems. You will need a miticide\ovicide to get rid of these pests. A follow up spray five to seven days later will have you back in business.
On the bright side, researchers have genetically engineered plants to produce a "GLOW" when under stress such as drought, or fungal attack. These plants can be positioned in any crop with the ability to produce a colour coded "GLOW" to indicate various problems. I hope that puts a "GLOW" in your day!

Don’t forget to try to attend the spring rose shows, and bring a friend with you.

Happy rose growing to all rosarians.

Jim Cunningham

Jim Cunningham Cultural Notes- Autumn 2007
Strong growth signs should be evident on our rose bushes in early autumn. Buds still forming are getting prepared for another burst of colour and glory, nature never lets the rose grower down.

Minimum rainfall has continued in N.S.W. this year. Some of our commercial growers have just enough water to make it past our hottest months. At last our government has acknowledged our low rainfall and drought conditions, so keep our chins up and potter on.

With the many benefits of mulching in our dry climate, the mulch holds the moisture and helps prevent evaporation. A soil P.H. and moisture tester are beneficial. Watering according to the soil moisture meter can greatly reduce water use. A rain gauge will also reduce watering needs when monitored. As the weather cools down, reduce watering to every 14 days, this helps encourage dormancy. In winter months, only water as required. I have had good results with twenty five soakings a year in a sub-tropical climate.

This is a good time to prepare the soil for new plantings in July. Cultivate to around 50cm and add as much organic matter that’s available. Remove stakes from water shoots that have flowered and stock pile. Disbud terminal buds on clusters; remove side buds on large flowered roses. Clean out any rubbish and twiggy growth from bushes; remove any stems lacking vigour from their point of origin. Remove fallen foliage and any debris especially that affected by disease and burn where possible. Good garden hygiene helps prevent fungal disease.
Check all ties on tree roses and climbers, replace as required. This will reduce wind rock in autumn, especially if anchorage is insufficient. Soil around the roots can be refirmed if necessary.

Your regular fertilizer programme ‘ROOT-FEED’ should cease in or around March. Foliar soluble fertilizer feeding can be used anytime to good advantage. This is a targeted feed directed at the underside of the foliage on your plants. Minor nutrient deficiencies can be remedied with foliar. Some exhibitors use it shortly before a show as a "boost" to the roses. Plants show a rapid response to foliar feeding even under stress. Foliar should be considered as a supplement to our ROOT fertilizing programme not a substitute. A word of caution: be extra careful when reading the manufacturers instructions. The chemical must be diluted properly on tender young foliage to prevent burn, but still concentrated enough for maximum effect. Foliar sprays are compatible with most other chemical sprays.

As the days remain warm and nights get cooler and dewy, mildew can become a problem. These are favourable conditions for mildew spores to germinate. Use a systemic spray before leaf distortion and signs of white powdery covering on foliage. A systemic spray permeates the skin of the plant and moves up and down the sap stream. Don’t let fungal diseases spoil your autumn flush of roses.

Pests are not a problem in the autumn months. Thrips, aphids and caterpillars are rarely in plague proportions. However if concerned, use an environmentally friendly contact spray to keep at a minimum.

Try not to let spraying become an unpleasant chore. Rose breeders are introducing hardier and disease resistant plants more than ever before. Newer sprays are safer than ever (no D.D.T.), introduced in the past. Spray equipment is greatly improved and comes in all shapes and sizes. Rose growing is easy and a very rewarding hobby. It is not unusual to have fragrant fresh roses in the home for at least nine months of the year. You are the rose doctor; you look after the plants the plants look after the roses. Roses are grown from the TOP END of Australia in the tropics, to the snowfields in the Snowy Mountains, how good is that. It is worth mentioning the most elevated public rose garden in the Southern Hemisphere is at ‘Khancoban’ in the Snowy.
New Rose catalogues are doing their rounds. Swanes have "Lavender Simplicity" as a new release on the front cover. The original "Pink Simplicity" released in 1978 has now sported four times, namely, White, Red, Yellow, Lavender and of course the parent "Pink Simplicity". All varieties send out medium sized clusters with a nice fragrance. I have seen this grown as a hedge and it was absolutely breathtaking. A pleasant evening is assured browsing through these catalogues. After the decisions are made, order as soon as possible to avoid over ordering of popular varieties or substitutions. Available to "Rose Society of NSW" members is a discount on bare root roses, mail order or packaged from Swanes nurseries. Good luck with the roses of your choice.

Our membership has increased considerably in recent years. It would be nice to see as many members as possible visit rose shows held in autumn. If you could exhibit (GREAT FUN) some blooms it would be even more enjoyable. Remember there is a lot more to showing roses than silverware and ribbons. On top of the spectacular mass of colour, you meet and chat to fellow rosarians with similar interests; you extend your rose growing hobby. What happens when you win? I will let you work that hard to explain BUG out for yourself. Now the ball is in your court, let your feet follow your heart, give it a go, you will not be disappointed.

Dates for your diary are in this magazine. The Royal Easter Spectacular is on Easter Saturday, 7th. April. On this day three NSW Rose Championships are on display and many other classes. The NSW Rose Society and Neutrog are major sponsors of these events. Let me thank all concerned on organizing these events.

Happy rose growing to all rosarians.

Jim Cunningham Cultural Notes - Summer 2006

The approach of summer, combined with wide spread drought and dry conditions is a reminder we need to use water intelligently.

Roses respond noticeably to their watering needs. A good watering should really soak the soil to allow the water to penetrate the mulching material and sink right down to the root area. A general guide is around 15 litres per sq. metre, covering the whole rose bed; this is equivalent to approximately 40mm per sq. metre. Continue this watering on a weekly basis during the hot months; if any rain falls accept it as a bonus. Try to water early morning. This will reduce evaporation. Any splashback on the foliage or flowers will dry quickly; this will reduce the incidence of fungal disease.

Good soakings of water really will help push new growth from the base. Water shoots will have emerged from some varieties. These shoots usually come from the bud union or close above it. Their growth is sappy in appearance and soft to touch. A badly placed water shoot can be gently nudged to the outside of the plant if necessary, but do not force it, or bend it. Keep the shoot staked loosely until matured, twisties or old pantyhose are handy as ties. Your best blooms will come from these new shoots, they will also be the future framework, and therefore must be nurtured. Never cut into a watershoot even if it is crooked or badly placed, unless you intend to remove it at its point of origin. To prune a watershoot after it has flowered remove the central part of the truss, and simply deadhead the remaining few stems, nature will do the rest.

For a continuity of supply of beautiful flowers, you must deadhead the bush on a regular basis. When the bloom is past its best or spent, prune back to a strong bud, this will produce another bloom in five to seven weeks. Only cut short stems when deadheading in the hot months. The more foliage on your bush the more flowers you will receive. If you are cutting roses for a vase you can increase the stem length.
The hot weather and long hours of sunlight - the quicker the growth on our bushes. Mulch and compost are excellent for your garden; however they are not a substitute for a well-balanced fertilizer. One clenched handful per bush is sufficient. Over use of fertilizer is a waste and dangerous; because they are organic does not mean they are safe. Nothing in excess is "SAFE". Err on the safe side when fertilizing; a little often is the rule of thumb. After fertilizing do not forget to water in well.

Keep up your preventative measures for disease and pests. Sam McGredy said "if you collect silver you have to be prepared to polish it occasionally to keep it looking good, for the same reason you should spray your roses." All living things are subject to some disease; roses are no exception.
Are you happy with your newly planted roses this season? Keep the roots nice and moist until they are established. Remove spent blooms at the first node. Keep even twiggy growth on your plant to help prevent sunburn on tender new canes. Give a fertilizing in February. Your normal maintenance will commence in their second season.
On the subject of new roses, why not give someone a special rose for Christmas; Mother’s Love, Warm Wishes, Many Happy Returns, to name just a few. A living gift can be very welcomed.
As this is your last N.S.W. Rose for the year, I would like to wish you all a Happy Christmas and a safe New Year.

Jim Cunningham

Jim Cunningham Cultural Notes - Spring 2006

Let’s spring into action and talk about the benefits of mulch. Most roses have shallow, fibrous roots and they need copious amounts of mulch around the root system. This is particularly important in our hot Australian climate. Organic mulches on our soil will slowly break down into humus. It will prevent water evaporation by at least 50%, it will act as a blanket against temperature changes, and weed growth will be inhibited or stopped by denying them light.

Mulching will minimize suckering, and deter some pests from invading the roses. It also offers a slow release nutrient source to your plants. Your plants will be healthier and more disease resistant.

I try to use a combination of mulching materials mixed together at one time. This diversity will ensure a steady break down of the mulch and a variety of nutrients to your plants. This is similar to our forests where layers of bark, twigs, leaves and animal manures are continuously recycled. With a small amount of effort it is not difficult to achieve this goal. For your effort you will enjoy bigger blooms of good quality. Be sure the material used is open and pliable to allow air and water to penetrate.

As we move into over drive in our throwaway society, composting is even more desirable. Composting is one solution to our slimy landfill sites; it also offers gardeners a good source of soil nutrients. Most composting material is all around us. Nearly anything which is biodegradable or was once living can be used to compost. The following list is some of the items you can use: - newspapers (shred and compost); vase flowers; grass; weeds; leaves (all sorts); hedge trimmings; twigs; pine needles; sawdust; vegetables (cooked and raw); cereals and their boxes; fruit peelings; crushed egg shells; tea bags and coffee grounds; dry dog food; out of date canned food; frozen vegetables.

It is not possible to discuss in detail each of the above-mentioned items, they are just some of the things you are likely to have at hand. If unsure, ask yourself, has it ever grown? If the answer is yes, compost it. Do finger nails and hair grow? Compost it. Err on the safe side; keep dairy products such as cheese and also meat out of the compost. Keep dog and cat excrement out of the bin, they may contain harmful bacteria or worm larvae. Any other manure can be composted. The most nutritional being elephant manure! Where do you get it? You are not only doing your plants a favour supplying nutrients, rich compost also helps the environment you live in. It is not surprising that humans are the only species on earth that create rubbish! The well-made compost heap can convert your "RUBBISH" into a good fertilizer and an excellent soil improver. Now you know which bin to put your organic materials in.

It looks like our spring flush is coming early this year. As the foliage expands with the warmer weather, the feeder roots begin to grow outwards. These very fine feeder roots in established roses are regularly just under the soil surface; this soil can be compacted and damaged during pruning. A gentle forking of the soil will reduce this compaction and improve aeration. On completion of cultivation, fertilize your bushes at the drip line and water well. Now cover the bed with good mulch to the depth of at least 10cms, to make it worthwhile. Keep the mulch topped up as required. A mulching will also save labour input later.

Strong growth is evident in September. Keep a watch for pests, aphids in particular can appear in plague proportions and should be checked as needed. Thrips will follow later, these look like 1mm black slivers of timber, don’t let them spoil your biggest flush. Good success can be had using Confidor as an insecticide. Red spider never fails to visit me yearly. This pest will quickly defoliate your bushes. Micro pearl like eggs under the foliage, minute webbing will also appear. A miticide is used to rid this nuisance. Most insecticide and miticides are compatible.

Keep your foliage green and free of fungi disease. Mildew usually arrives with lush new growth. Black spot arrives some weeks later. An early symptom of mildew is twisted and distorted growth. Blackspot is self-explanatory. Black spots of various sizes will appear or the upper leaf surface. Both these fungi will be arrested completely if sprayed as the foliage expands and no symptoms have appeared. A second spray ten to fourteen days later will further retard spore germination. The secret is to prevent rather than cure. A visit to your nearest "Produce" supplier will guide you as to what is available.

Rose shows are held in spring, come and smell the fragrant blooms, bring your friends. This is a good way of meeting people with a similar interest. Ask questions, have a chat, exchange ideas, enjoy your rose growing hobby, it’s all pleasure.

Happy rose growing to all rosarians.

Jim Cunningham Cultural Notes -Winter 2006
Your new bare-root plants should be arriving soon. Give the soil a final turnover and remove any weeds, all that should remain is a fine tilth. This also an ideal time to shunt existing plants to new positions if required.

When the roses arrive from the nursery, immerse them as deep as possible in tubs of water over night to ensure the roots are well hydrated. Remove each plant as required when the planting hole has been prepared.Planting consists of digging the hole wide and deep enough to allow the roots to spread as they mature. The roots will move from the base and become fibrous and lateral. The roots that arrive with bare root roses are main roots, not feeding roots. Main roots send out young root hairs, these will channel the soluble plant nutrients to the rose. These roots anchor the bush as it grows against storms etc. Any broken roots should be cut above that point, trim the remaining roots, this will stimulate the plant. Now make a cone shaped mound at the bottom of the hole. Radiate the roots over the cone and backfill half way. Gently firm the soil around the roots using yours fingers and hands. Fill the hole with water gently shaking the understock with your other hand to remove air bubbles and consolidate the soil. Allow the water to soak away then fill the hole with soil to ground level and water again. I like to leave the bud union at least 2.5cms above soil level. This is done prior to any back filling. Within six weeks eyes will swell and new growth will take place.

Winter pruning should commence after the incidence of frost has passed in your area. In the Sydney region this is usually late July.Pruning should be a pleasurable mid winter’s day spent in your garden. The future success of your roses depends on correct pruning. You will need sharp secateurs, pruning saw, long handled [parrot] secateurs, strong gloves and perhaps knee pads.When we prune we anticipate nature by removing old, dead, spindly wood. Any branch lacking vigour is more harm than useful. Cut any very old canes at their point of origin, leaving no stubs for pests and diseases to harbor.Contrary to what most people think, heavy pruning weakens rose bushes, not strengthens them. Loss of good wood is food reserves lost. This is where the term "moderate pruning" applies, the cutting of the branches that are retained when pruning. I cut according to the health and vigour of the plant. If it has lots of healthy wood with plenty of eyes for future quality blooms, why hack it off? Just trim to tidy its shape. Keep as many strong branches as possible. Reduce these by one third, cutting 5mm above an outward-facing eye, and at a 45-degree angle away from the eye. No sealing of the cuts is necessary. Look at the bush in a skeletonised shape. You can still remove more if you want, but you can’t put it on. If you have three or more strong canes remaining on each bush you are doing well. These basic steps apply to most roses. Remember to check all ties on climbers, weepers and tree roses. Replace them if needed.

Clean up the rose beds removing diseased foliage and spent mulch. Rose hygiene is a very effective way of controlling disease and pests.

Your next step is to thoroughly spray the bushes and all the rose beds with lime sulphur. Take note of new instructions on lime sulphur products and adhere to them. Sulphur can stain expensive jewelry and other household items. Cover up as required.

In these cooler months, as our rose growing hobby eases, we can concentrate on maintenance of equipment and future planning. Sprayers and mechanical aids in particular should be thoroughly cleaned.Future planning means another compost bin in the garden. As gardeners we know the key to healthy plants is well-nourished healthy soil. No amount of fertilizer can make up for poor soil. Compost continues feeding the soil even AFTER all of the organic matter has rotted away. Compost bins are an essential item in every home garden. Autumn leaves are now in abundance, become a "LEAF FREAK" by stock piling them with your grass clippings. Throwing this material away is the worst kind of waste I know. Wood ash from open fires should also be captured and used later. Composting will make you feel better in yourself. If you don’t already know it, find out, you will soon get the message.

Now with the long evenings upon us we have time to relax, reflect, THE TIMES, THEY ARE

A-CHANGIN’!

Happy rose growing to all rosarians.

Jim Cunningham

Jim Cunningham Cultural Notes - Autumn 2006

Australia had its hottest year on record in 2005. January started with heat-wave conditions, 45C and above was recorded in the Sydney area. No amount of water could keep the roses thriving. Mine stood up pretty well thanks to heavy mulching. It also helps to retain as much foliage as possible during the summer months; even twiggy growth will provide some shelter for the more productive growth below. A few scorched leaves are easier replaced than burnt stems. Your autumn flush should be nearly here. Keep up your spray programme for fungal diseases, and keep your bushes watered weekly up to blooming time. It is advisable not to feed your roses any more this season; however a foliar feed every fourteen days will be beneficial.

New rose catalogues will be arriving from the various nurseries. More than likely we will be tempted to purchase some variety. Keep in mind when ordering, that the coloured pictures are usually enhanced. I also have doubts about the fragrance rating. If possible try to see the variety somewhere local. Alternatively, visit one of the many rose shows held at this time of year. This will give you some idea if it’s good for exhibiting or if it is a good garden grower. If your garden is reasonably full but you still want to try something new, put it in a pot. This is a good way to access its potential over a growing season. If it performs to your liking plant it out with the rest of your babies. This method of container planting has worked well for me. Perhaps you can try it and see if it works for you. If you decide to plant in existing beds remove any passengers now. Remove as many roots as possible to prevent suckering in spring time. On completion, you will need to rejuvenate the soil. A good horticulturist will always say "prepare, prepare, prepare". You will not get better advice than that.

Ideally roses should be planted in at least 50cm of good soil. Turn the soil with a fork, breaking any lumps with the back of the fork. Incorporate as much manure as possible. A clenched handful of super phosphate per sq mtr can be added. When the soil is at the required level and the tilth is satisfactory cover with a mulch of good compost and leaf mould. There is no need to dig this in; earthworm activity will do this for you. This should happen at least six weeks before planting [six months is not too early]. When it comes to planting [June, July], your soil will be ready for your roses. They will bolt away in front of you. Soil that is properly prepared will always give you good rewards no matter what you plant.

Keep the soil around new plants firm and moist until the feeding roots have become established. Keep well mulched. Do not feed with manures or fertilizers until late February. This will eliminate any possibility of burning new hair like feeding roots. Sufficient nutrients should be in the soil to sustain and support good growth until at least February. To further stimulate new growth just snap off spent flowers at the first node. This applies to tiny miniatures or rampant climbers. I hope your choice is a worthy addition to your garden.

The planting of tree roses are the same, however you will need to hammer a wooden stake in firmly before you plant. The stake should face north/north west to help shade the stem in hot weather. The stake should be 2.5cm BELOW the bud union so as not to inhibit new growth from the union. When tying the rose to the stake make it firm but loose. Never use more than ONE tie. This should be 5cm below the stake, the reason being if a second tie is used lower down and the top tie snaps in strong wind, the stem of the tree rose could break at the lower tie. Hardwood stakes are recommended and old panty hose can be used as a tie. Order your ‘mail order’ roses as soon as you make up your mind. Don't wait too long as popular varieties sell out quickly. The last things we want are substitutes for our chosen varieties. If this happens [and it does], it can be very frustrating and time wasted.
During the cooler autumn weather spend some extra time enjoying the colourful blooms you will see all season. Test the fragrance, cut long stemmed roses for indoor decoration or for friends. Have fragrant roses beside your phone; bury your nose in them while talking. Your garden is for pleasure not penance, enjoy it. Happy rose growing to all rosarians.

Jim Cunningham

Cultural Notes June, July and August 2005

Winter is a good time to work in the garden and we should also take the opportunity to evaluate our situation. Earlier in the year we held some optimism for a break in the drought but unfortunately it has tightened its grip and in most areas our plants are struggling. We need to consider which of our roses are best coping with the situation and the positions in our gardens which are giving most protection. Hope springs eternal and we will no doubt make new plantings this season. When doing this we will need to make careful plans.

With the adverse weather there is the temptation to discard roses which have not performed as expected. However we need to be patient as it is unlikely that all of our plants will be at their best at the same time. It is well recognized that some cultivars are better in the Spring whilst others thrive in the Autumn. In cases where the plant is obviously inferior and has been given a good trial then remove it and try again. Neighbouring plants can also be a factor as they draw nutrients and moisture from the soil. It could be that you need to reposition some roses in another part of the garden. This is the best time of the year to move plants. Prepare the new site thoroughly then dig a circle around the rose so that you retain a strong root base when lifting. Trim any damaged roots before positioning in the new site. In April I was fortunate to be given some bushes of considerable size. I made sure that they did not dry out in transit and planted them soon after digging. Because of their size the roses were staked so that they will not move around in the wind. In addition each plant received a bucket of water mixed with Natrakelp, the liquid seaweed product. At the time of writing the results are very encouraging. I now intend moving some other plants to more favourable beds. The competition from large trees can be very strong.

By now you have probably ordered your new cultivars and await their arrival. However there is still time to place orders with a specialist rose nursery or perhaps find a treasure in the local garden centre or chain store. The advantage with the specialists is that you can obtain cultivars which are recent releases or still under plant breeders’ rights. If buying from a shopping centre beware of plants which have been held for some time and have developed long pale shoots. Even so, there are some good purchases to be made at such places and the range of cultivars can be surprising.

Time spent preparing the garden is important. A minimum of six hours sunlight is required to encourage the roses to grow. At the same time it is an advantage for them to be protected from winds which have a drying effect. The hot winds can be particularly harmful when combined with days of extreme temperature. Choose a position where you would be happy to sit on a chair but remember that the rose cannot move. The soil should be cultivated to a fine tilth so that it will support the rose, yet allow air and water to circulate freely. The hole should be comfortably larger than the roots with consideration given to depth and width. The rose should be placed on top of a fist of soil at the bottom of the hole which is dug. The roots are then able to radiate into the surrounding area. Partially fill with soil and then water well. Consider the use of a seaweed mix to stimulate the roots. Then complete by filling the hole. Remember to water regularly as it takes some time for the rose to become established.

Probably more questions are asked about pruning than of any other aspect of rose culture. There is no need for it to be seen as confronting as it is a fairly simple task with no absolute rights or wrongs. The correct equipment will assist greatly. Sharp secateurs, lopping shears, pruning saw, leather gloves (or gauntlets) and protective clothing including a hat are all helpful. The following comments apply to modern bush roses.

Firstly, remove all dead and spindly growth. Then cut a little less than a centimetre above buds on stems of approximately pencil thickness. It has been traditional to recommend pruning to an outwards growing shoot but this is not essential. The key is to find buds which will produce good growth. It is likely that you will need to clear some canes out of the centre of the structure if it is conjested. Basal shoots which grew during the last season should be lightly trimmed at the top as to cut into the main stem can lead to dieback. Remember that the basal (or water) shoots grow from above the bud union. Unwanted suckers come from the rootstock, have different foliage and appear from below the bud union.

Miniatures can be treated in a similar way in terms of clearing out the rubbish but there is no need to tediously trim each stem to a bud. A general haircut will suffice. Most of the new flowers will come from new growth developing from the base. Because their growth and flowering habits are so different it is difficult to make general comments about pruning climbers and heritage roses. The aim should be tidy the plant and stimulate growth. This stimulation should occur shortly before the rose is ready to produce flowers.

With regards to most garden roses it is not necessary to prune before late July or early August. In areas prone to heavy frosts early pruned roses could see young shoots damaged. When pruning is completed an application of winter strength lime sulphur could be sprayed to kill off fungal spores which remain on the canes and the surrounding soil.

This is a good time to service garden equipment. Spray units can fail to operate properly if residue is allowed to build up. Clean the tank and the spray lance and you will notice a big improvement in the coming season. Tools can be wiped down and handles coated with linseed oil. Hoes and spades will last for many years if well maintained. I have a hoe which my grandfather used on his dahlias in the early part of the last century.

Continue to access your watering needs and how you apply it to the garden. Consider dripper systems, recycling, tanks, mulching and protective screens. Remember that to any problem there is always a solution.

Cultural Notes March, April and May 2005
With an easing of the drought in some areas of the state we have been encouraged by a better performance of roses in our gardens. For too long our plants have been in survival mode and our expectations were limited. It is an old adage, but there is nothing like rain to make things grow. We hope that the many members who are still enduring drought conditions and water restrictions will be rewarded for their patience. Recent times have proven that we can never depend entirely on rainfall to support our gardens and the need to have reasonable rain and effective watering systems in place has been very obvious. The coming months should provide us with numerous blooms to enjoy and hopefully share with others.

Autumn tends to be kinder on our roses than the other seasons. The cooling temperatures, less likelihood of strong winds and less insect activity all contribute to this situation. To offset these advantages the fungal diseases can become more prevalent in coastal areas. Caterpillars like lush new growth and if there are only a few they can be removed by hand. With large infestations contact your garden centre for an effective product. Insect problems tend to vary according to the location. For me, hibiscus beetle continues to be a nuisance but regular spraying can control them. It is important to spray the buds as they are showing colour because once the flower is open the damage will have occurred. Like most people I try to avoid using toxic materials and it is now possible to obtain products on the safer end of the scale. Because problems tend to be localised it is advisable to consult your local garden centre for solutions to pest infestations.

Integrated Pest Management is a programme which is being embraced by commercial operations. For some time our friends who grow roses for a living have sought methods to successfully produce blooms in enclosed environments. Predator mite have controlled the two-spotted mite and other problems have been minimised using natural means. The growers have selected cultivars which are resistant to pests and diseases and have vigour superior to earlier favourites. The advantages of a more natural environment are obvious. Spraying can be very expensive and special measures must be in place to ensure the safety of the operators. Floraco at Leppington is one of the largest commercial cut flower growers in NSW and I have been fortunate to organise a visit to their extensive property in May. Details of this day appear elsewhere in this magazine. We are fortunate to learn the methods of the people who depend on their efficiency for a living.

The cooler nights and warm days can lead to fungal diseases. It has been the practice of many rosarians to spray with a fungicide to control blackspot and powdery mildew. Fungicides can control these foliage diseases if applied fortnightly. My recent contact with the University of Western Sydney has provided encouraging news about the use of pest oil as an alternative. I hope to have further news on this angle shortly.

I have always taken the view that there is no one way to successfully raise plants or animals. It is a case of "what works for me". With the anticipated input from experts I am confident that we can combine our best practices with the proven methods of the professionals. By installing dripper systems in our gardens we have already taken a step down that path. I have noticed a considerable decline in fungal diseases since changing to this method of watering. It could also be related to the use of Sudden Impact as a fertiliser. Tasks which we perform in the garden are not done in isolation. They impact on other factors. By way of example, if we apply fertiliser we must water thoroughly. Otherwise the roots will be damaged and the nutrients will not be taken up by the plant. There is no harm in giving the roses a boost in early autumn but there is little point in promoting growth in May. It is still important to give the plants due care in late autumn and early winter. A setback at this time of year will carry over to the next season.
It is not too early to make preparations for the selection and planting of new roses. A visit to shows and nurseries will give you a chance to view the best of the flowers. Send for the catalogues from specialist rose nurseries to assist you with your choice. Dig the garden where you intend to plant the new roses. Allow plenty of space for each plant and be prepared to turn the soil on a number of occasions.

There is always plenty to do in a garden and there is always plenty to think about. Whether you are a doer or a thinker I hope that you enjoy your gardening in the coming months.

Cultural Notes for December 2004, January and February 2005
With good late spring rains most gardeners can approach summer with more confidence than has been the case in the last few years. The subsoil should be moist and the roots should be happier, particularly if we continue mulching. Water storage levels and water restrictions will also be factors which will affect our garden management and our ability to keep our roses flourishing.
The health of the roses in South Australia was eye-catching. Of course, the drier climate which is similar to some of our country areas is better in terms of fungal diseases but their success goes beyond climatic advantages. Sudden Impact has been used extensively as their fertiliser of choice and our SA colleagues are convinced of its effectiveness. Prior to its introduction the Rose Society of South Australia had worked with Neutrog to devise the best formula. The use of water storing crystals and foliar fertilisers can further strengthen the supply of nutrients to our plants.

It can be tempting to apply more fertiliser than is recommended but this can be counter-productive. The companies which market products have done extensive trials and they make suggestions as to how we should use them. In some ways it would be in their interests for us to use larger quantities but they know that we will be satisfied if our plants are at their best.

Summer is the most critical season for our mulch to be in place. Continue to compost at home and be on the lookout for additional sources. I heard of another one recently, whereby stable manure can be obtained from some horse racing trainers. In many cases they are happy to dispose of the bedding and it is a case of us taking a trailer and collecting it. This is usually loose and friable and does not pack on the surface of our gardens as is sometimes the case with other materials. At times I have heard the suggestion that newspaper be applied to the surface but thick sheets can form a barrier to the penetration of water.

Much has been said about water in recent times. In short, use it responsibly and effectively. Without it our roses will quickly decline. Only grow as many plants as you can comfortably manage. There are no prizes for the garden with the most plants. Another lesson from SA was the extensive use of pillar and climbing roses. They are space savers and produce more flowers than their bush cousins. It was surprising the number of climbing miniatures on show. We can enhance our garden design and at the same time be waterwise.

The prevention of pests and diseases is always a talking point amongst all gardeners. The most impressive garden which I saw in SA requires very little maintenance in that area. The roses are sprayed twice in early spring to protect against fungal diseases and not again for the remainder of the growing period. There is very little trouble with insects and the few thrips which appear in the spring are tolerated. The quality of the blooms was outstanding and the plants were vigorous. This supports our notion that strong healthy plants are more likely to resist problems.
Because of our more humid climate it is recommended that we spray fortnightly with a fungicide to prevent blackspot and powdery mildew. I recently read a very interesting article on the use of pest oil on roses. This product has been very successful in the treatment of leaf miner on citrus trees and most importantly it is environmentally friendly. I have made contact with a professor at the University of Western Sydney and he kindly forwarded an extensive report of his faculty’s research on the use of pest oil to control powdery mildew, blackspot and two-spotted mite on roses. The trials have been conducted with commercial rose growers and it appears that we will be able to use pest oil as an alternative to fungicides (with the added bonus of beating the mite). Professor Beattie is keen to become involved with the Rose Society and I hope to be able to have further discussions in the coming weeks.

If you are planning to exhibit roses at the autumn shows it will be necessary to summer prune earlier than most years because Easter falls in March in 2005. For some cultivars we need to allow about eight weeks from pruning to flowering but with others it can take as little as six weeks. Accurate record keeping over a number of years would help us to obtain flowers when we need them. For a steady supply of flowers deadhead regularly and cut the stems to a similar length as if cutting for the vase. There is no mystery about summer trimming. It involves removing spent blooms and any weak, useless wood. It is not as dramatic as winter pruning but helps to stimulate the rose to produce good autumn blooms.

To our many new members please feel free to seek advice from your fellow rosarians.

Attendance at meetings will also provide those opportunities. Often the most benefits from a meeting can be the informal chat at supper or afternoon tea.

Cultural Notes for Sept 2004 to November 2004:
Cultural notes provides helpful information on all facets of rose growing. Following this quarters notes are links to cultural notes for this and previous corresponding periods. They are in PDF format, so if you do not have Acrobat Reader installed follow the link at the bottom of the home page.

Hope springs eternal! With the arrival of a new season we look forward to vigorous plants and colourful blooms. For the greater part of NSW we enjoy distinct seasons and can appreciate the changes as the year progresses. Our roses will only show vigour if the weather conditions are conducive and if we do all that we can to enhance their growth. The first factor is, of course, beyond our control but there are many ways that we can use our skill as gardeners.

For some time most of NSW has been in the grip of drought and it has been discouraging for those of us who view gardening as a relaxing and worthwhile recreation. It would be easy to give in to the water restrictions and political masters who are encouraging us to grow solely native plants. The good times will come again and together with better managed water resources we will find our gardens flourishing. There are lessons which we can learn from the recent experiences.

Mulching is vital to retain soil moisture levels. Organic materials which are loose in texture and can be loaded onto the garden in depth prevent the soil from being baked by the hot sun. They are also helpful in countering the effects of wind, which I consider to be enemy number one in any garden. I recently obtained a load of stable manure from a friend. It is basically a mix of horse manure and urine, straw and rice hulls. It is noticeable that the soil beneath this mulch is moister than some neighbouring beds. Such a soil environment will encourage valuable micro-organisms. On other occasions I have obtained loads of duck manure which is also a good mulch. It does need to be cultivated from time to time because the surface can become impervious to water.

The manure from my poultry can also be used for this purpose but not to the same depth because it is richer and could burn. I recently watched Peter Cundall planting potatoes and he covered the tubers with a massive amount of sheep manure. Obviously this must have been well-composted. Cow manure is another excellent alternative as it provides considerable nutrient as well as mulching benefits. Lucerne in the form of easy to handle cubes or bales is another organic material which gives good results.

For many of us the first book on roses which we bought was "Better Roses" by A.S. Thomas. This was, and remains, one of the most authoritative books written about roses but it is interesting to note that the index makes no mention of mulching. With the move towards an organic approach to gardening and the recognition of water conservation we now find gardening experts writing chapters on mulching. It is a case of mulch and tolerate the weeds which sometimes germinate. The backyard compost heap is another excellent source of organic material. Those members who have been fortunate to hear the excellent presentation from Jim Cunningham on this subject will be aware of the many benefits of compost.
Statistics indicate that two out of three households now recycle kitchen scraps and garden waste.

In recent times much has been written about the supply and application of water. For those people on town water drip irrigation has proved to be an efficient way of watering. Restrictions have made it very difficult to rely solely on using a hose. In areas where the water shortage is critical it is a case of helping the roses to survive until the good times return.

Provided that you are able to water the plants properly, Spring is the right time to apply fertiliser. Some rosarians recommend larger amounts early in the season and again in late summer. When conditions have been favourable I have applied a smaller quantity at the beginning of each month. My thinking is that the plants will continue at a regular rate of progress, provided that summer temperatures do not become extreme.

There are a number of excellent products on the market including 'Sudden Impact for Roses'and others advertised from time to time in this magazine. Remember that foliar feeding has the benefit of quicker availability to the plant. It can also be applied in conjunction with most other sprays.
Virtually all plants are at some time affected by pests and diseases and roses are no exception. The healthier we can grow our roses the more likely it is that they will be able to resist these problems. This is particularly the case with fungal diseases. Blackspot and powdery mildew will quickly emerge on leaves which are stressed. These diseases have continued to be evident during the course of the drought. The more humid climate of coastal areas encourages the spores which lead to fungal problems.

A variety of products are available in garden centres to assist us to control blackspot. By spraying at approximately fortnightly intervals our roses should retain their healthy, glossy foliage. Early Spring infestations of aphides are common and user friendly sprays can be obtained to stop them sucking the goodness out of the plants. Otherwise they can be washed off with a burst from the hose, restrictions permitting. Later in the season thrip can appear overnight, driven in by hot westerly winds. They are small insects which damage the petals and discolour flowers. Frequent applications of insecticide may give some protection. Fortunately, a well maintained garden is unlikely to encounter all of the pests which can trouble us.

Continue to cut blooms as they mature so that others will follow them. Some cultivars such as Peter Frankenfeld repeat in about six weeks. One of the reasons that we grow roses is because they are so generous, so give them every encouragement.

Let us hope that the coming months will see improved weather conditions and many colourful blooms in our gardens.

Best wishes to all rosarians,
Graham Wright

Note : Graham is a Rose Judge and A Grade exhibitor with much success at State and National Level.