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CULTURAL
NOTES
Jim
Cunningham Cultural Notes Autumn 2009
As new catalogues arrive, you will again be tempted to purchase. They are meant to entertain and delight; you can relax and enjoy good reading and beautiful photographs. They are designed in a way to get rosarians and the general public aroused enough to buy their roses. While rose catalogues are not intended to be fiction, they are not very good text books.
Swane’s new catalogue has some good “MedalWinners” in their new releases. What caught my eye was “Fire Fighter”. This award winner from the trial grounds in South Australia is stunning. This rose is vigorous, upright growth of around two meters; the rich red rose sits firmly on long straight stems. It is amongst the most powerfully perfumed rose ever to cross my nostrils. Always check with someone who grows what you are interested in, better still look at it growing in a garden and assess it yourself. Good luck with the roses of your choice. Fire Fighter is on display at Swanes in the garden at Dural.
The rose of today differs greatly from its ancestors. We can thank the skilled efforts of the hybridist for this turn around. The large flowered rose is still the most popular rose growing today, with its vigorous growth, much improved disease resistance, strong stems, increased fragrance and a range of undreamt colourings. They say the “BLUE ROSE” will be commercially available in 2010; it will have to be a big improvement to what rambling rosarians observed in Osaka a few short years ago.
Roses look best grouped or massed, much more effective than scattered in various locations. Beds should be no wider than necessary for two rows of plants so that maintenance can be done from both sides preferably or from pathways without treading on the beds. Plants should be easily accessed for cutting blooms, spraying, watering etc., or for admiring at your leisure.
An open area is more preferable than sites sheltered or shaded by fences, trees or buildings. At least half of the available sunshine should reach your plants daily.
Early preparation of your area is essential; the beds should be ready for planting long before your plants arrive. A fertile, well cultivated soil is the key to healthy and high quality roses. Roses will not thrive in poorly drained and badly aerated soils.
Soil preparation should be to a depth of around 50cm. of good soil. Rotted manures and good compost should be used to improve nutrient retention, drainage and soil moisture. Approximately one third organic material by volume is recommended. Horse stable combinations of manure, bits of lucerne, wood shavings and urine are excellent. Worried that manures will be too hot? Let me tell you to forget it. Mixed in the soil and reasonably moist, this warm cocktail will force feeder root growth, no problem for bare rooted or potted roses. Hot manures do not have to be composted if mixed in the soil.
A common mistake which can cause failure or poor performance of roses are: last minute soil preparation, planting in shade or poorly drained soil, planting too deeply or faulty planting, neglect of rose hygiene and disease control, pruning with blunt tools. Companion planting can contribute nothing to a rose’s welfare in fact they compete with them for nutrients.
Now is a good time to remove any passengers in your garden, remove as much roots as possible in all directions to prevent suckering in the spring months.
Pests cause very few problems in autumn months, a misting of blooms should be sufficient for control.
Continue your preventative maintenance schedule to keep your foliage clean and green. Don’t let fungus ruin your autumn flush of roses.
Remember to water established field grown roses in prolonged drought and roses in pots daily, or as necessary.
Always maintain weed control throughout the growing season. Weed by hand around the root zone to avoid any damage to fragile feeding roots. A well mulched bed should avoid this chore.
Any unproductive stem or stems lacking vigour can be removed in autumn, be sure to remove them from their point of origin leaving no stubs (hat racks) for pests or diseases to harbour in over winter. Shorten long shoots on climbers, trim back long stems on bush roses to reduce wind rock in late autumn.
Collect and burn if possible deadwood, fallen leaves and any other rubbish, especially that affected by disease.
Water shoots that have flowered can have the stakes removed and stock piled. Ties on tree roses and climbers should be checked and replaced as required. Remember one tie only is needed on tree roses.
Don’t hesitate too long to place your “MAIL ORDER” for the bare rooted roses of your choice. Australian bred roses are becoming more popular, give some thought to these when ordering.
No more fertilizing of roses is necessary from mid autumn; this should encourage dormancy and harden the stems for winter pruning.
As the years slip past, my garden diary has become an invaluable asset keeping me in touch with the great hobby of growing roses for all occasions. My first rose bought “DOWN UNDER” was Sutters Gold, my diary answered this. My point is; a diary is a handy way for rosarians to keep track of what is planted and when, what you sprayed and when. Even if you can remember what you did last month a diary record will prove of great value as you look back on the rose growing season and ahead to next year.
During these cooler months the super slow opening blooms of the highest quality, with intense fragrance and vibrant colours should be in all gardens. Great pleasure can be had sharing with friends and decorating your dining areas with fresh fragrant roses over the Easter period. Further enjoyment can be had visiting the many rose shows at this time of year. Dates for your diary are in this magazine.
Happy rose growing to all rosarians.
Jim Cunningham
Jim
Cunningham Cultural Notes Autumn 2008
This has been a testing summer
for our roses. Rain and more rain was dumped relentlessly
on our gardens. Hail the size of golf balls shredded the foliage,
new water shoots reduced to pulp as they dangled from most
of the bushes. Sadly my weeping tree rose CREPUSCULE
could not withstand the thrashing from the inclement weather.
Even the rose ring and rose ring support had indentations
from the HAIL; Crepuscule would have had its centenary
in two years time, amen. Despite the very wet conditions
these plants are bouncing back. Lush new growth is very promising;
a bumper crop of roses can be expected in autumn.
It is very possible no more watering will be required for
field grown roses this season. Having moved the saturated
thick mulch and checking several areas of subsoil, I am satisfied
enough moisture content is available to sustain good growth
through the autumn.
When planning a new rose garden, consideration to the end
product is essential. Every time you plant your boot on the
rose bed it would be similar to nine (9) on the Richter
Scale to the activity down under. The very beneficial
micro-organisms and especially macro-organisms (earthworms),
close to the soil surface detest soil disturbance. No bed
should be more than two meters in width when viewed all round.
This allows maintenance (arms length) and a happy environment
in the soil. Plenty of open space that receives lots of sun
is very important. The soil should be enriched adding plenty
of good compost. Make sure the drainage is sufficient before
you even think about preparing the soil. In my situation,
every bed was elevated to the required height; this eliminates
all drainage problems permanently.
The planning and planting of these beds can take considerable
time, not to mention your energy. Once the beds become
established, routine maintenance becomes a simple task. Cool
autumn weather is a good time to make any alterations in your
garden.
As you become motivated shop around for suitable material
to do the job. Dont be shy to ask any questions to your
supplier. Most nursery people are happy to give advice on
their products. Your local regional will advise on planting
or choice of plants for your area.
As new rose catalogues come in the letter box listing hundreds
of excellent varieties, and more new releases to confuse us
further, choosing roses can become a pleasant and sometimes
a bewildering experience. Chose with care, advice and guidance
is available from your nearest consulting rosarian.
Among the releases from Swanes is a rose named
Good Samaritan. This rose has been monitored on
my patch over a six month period with very little care. It
is large flowered and deep pink in colour. The long pointed
buds have good form on long stems, fragrance is slight. Its
resistance to disease is promising as is its growth. This
hybrid comes from Dr. Keith Zary, who also gave
us Moonstone, Gemini and City of Newcastle to name a few.
I think it is a worthy addition to your garden. Another look
at me release from Tom Carruths is a rose called My
Hero. This could be on the show bench in the near future
in the decorative class. Remember to watch for good Australian
bred roses coming your way this season. Good luck in your
decisions this season.
Check for any pests hovering around your roses. Any small
infestation can be checked by nipping off the affected parts,
or by squashing pests by hand. When used properly most chemical
sprays cause very few problems to the environment and are
very effective in controlling pests. Always assess whether
the problem really justifies their use. The use of combined
insecticide and fungicide is only required when both problems
are present at levels that warrant that control. When you
are sure the chemical suits the purpose, be sure to follow
the manufactures instructions to the application rate. A good
time to spray is early morning when most beneficial insects
are not active. Maintain weed control during the growing
season, heavy mulching usually controls this chore.
Trim back long stems on bush and shrub roses to reduce wind
rock pre pruning. Collect and burn (where possible)
dead wood, fallen leaves and other debris especially that
affected with disease.
Continue to harvest leaves from deciduous trees for use in
your compost. Deciduous leaves and fresh grass clippings mixed
equally can be a very nutritious mulch in early spring. If
you are not already a leaf freak now is the time
to start.
It is time to cut a vase of roses Kardinal for
the dining table. This rose stands frequent cutting
and still blooms freely and repeats quickly over a long period.
This rose is very hardy with good sized flowers in dark red,
strong stems of good length sets the scene. Enjoy your
autumn flush of roses and take care. Happy rose growing to
all rosarians.
Jim
Cunningham
Jim Cunningham Cultural
Notes Spring 2007
After some very heavy rainfall in our
winter months, you are sure to enjoy our beautiful spring
climate.
Lush new growth is evident on our bushes, foliage is expanding
and buds are getting fatter. Be patient with newly planted
roses, remove spent blooms at the first node, continue this
practise by retaining as much foliage during the first growing
year.
Your plants will soak up large quantities of water as the
growth becomes stronger. Practise deep watering on a weekly
basis to get surface nutrients to the feeding roots; this
is where the action takes place. Deep watering will also encourage
better anchorage of bushes and less easily damaged surface
roots. Presuming you have good drainage, your roses will accept
copious amounts of water as the weather hots up and your bushes
are fully clothed. Accepting the fact that roots can only
take up nutrients in a soluble form, water has to be the worlds
greatest "FERTILIZER". It makes no difference how
much or how often you feed your bushes, they will starve if
no water is received.
Watering plants in pots is important, plants in a confined
space cannot send out feeding roots in search of nutrients
or moisture. Many people use liquid manure in watering pots,
this smelly process has some advantages, I prefer to err on
the safe side and use "Compost Tea". Compost tea
also gives your potted roses a good supply of nutrients in
a liquid form. This brew can be used on newly planted roses
or seedlings with no risk to the tender feeding roots. Compost
tea as a foliar feed is very effective no matter how strong
the brew. If you have an abundance of compost you can afford
to be generous with it as a mulch. But if you never have enough,
big benefits can be gained by this compost brew. It is good
to start this pot maintenance routine early spring, and then
the first weekend of every month up to and including April.
Keep the pots well mulched with any organic material to help
retain moisture and maintain a steady temperature. During
hot weather your pots might need watering daily.
Compost tea can be made in any clean drum or large bucket.
Simply fill one fifth of the container with well made compost
and four fifths of clean water, how simple is that. You can
stir this brew whenever you want. After a couple of weeks,
dip your watering can into the container and use as required.
You can use the same batch of compost to make five or six
brews. Before making your next batch, remove the sludge from
the container and use on seedlings or house plants.
Any stockpiled leaf mulch should be spread on your rose beds.
If you could add one part manure to five parts leaf mould
to your plants, your rose will receive nearly all the nutrients
they require in the growing season. The addition of manure
keeps the carbon nitrogen ratio fairly stable, and prevents
matting of the leaves. This forest type mulch is very beneficial
to the soil. The chemical break-down of rotted leaves "LEAF
MOLD", as we know it, is as close to natural "HUMUS"
that you will get. Any organic mulching will benefit your
soil; try to keep the mulch at least 10cm thick, the deeper
the better. The material used should be friable to allow water
and air to penetrate, offering no resistance.
A well mulched garden produces healthy soil and vigorous,
disease resistant plants.
Early prevention of fungal germination on roses is a necessary
duty. As temperatures hover in the mid-twenties, and foliage
has not matured or it still expanding, commence your spray
routine. Your first fungicide spray should be very early spring,
followed by a second spray ten days later. A third spray fourteen
days later should stop any chance of spore germination of
occurring. Try alternating sprays as the seasons change. Remember
to spray the rose beds while you are motivated. Some new fungicides
in smaller quantities are now available at reputable "PRODUCE"
stores.
Keep a watch for pests. Aphids are sure to arrive, these sap
sucking insects can weaken your bushes. Easy to use environmental
sprays will stop them before they cause any damage.
Hot dry weather will encourage spider mites to your bushes.
If left untreated they will go to plague proportions and quickly
defoliate your rose bush. They usually start at the bottom,
and rapidly move upwards sucking every drop of sap on their
way. Some tell tale signs are foliage that looks sand-blasted
or minute webbing on stems. You will need a miticide\ovicide
to get rid of these pests. A follow up spray five to seven
days later will have you back in business.
On the bright side, researchers have genetically engineered
plants to produce a "GLOW" when under stress such
as drought, or fungal attack. These plants can be positioned
in any crop with the ability to produce a colour coded "GLOW"
to indicate various problems. I hope that puts a "GLOW"
in your day!
Dont forget to try to attend the spring rose shows,
and bring a friend with you.
Happy rose growing to all rosarians.
Jim Cunningham

Jim
Cunningham Cultural Notes- Autumn 2007
Strong growth signs should be evident on our rose bushes in
early autumn. Buds still forming are getting prepared for
another burst of colour and glory, nature never lets the rose
grower down.
Minimum rainfall has continued in N.S.W. this year. Some of
our commercial growers have just enough water to make it past
our hottest months. At last our government has acknowledged
our low rainfall and drought conditions, so keep our chins
up and potter on.
With the many benefits of mulching in our dry climate, the
mulch holds the moisture and helps prevent evaporation. A
soil P.H. and moisture tester are beneficial. Watering according
to the soil moisture meter can greatly reduce water use. A
rain gauge will also reduce watering needs when monitored.
As the weather cools down, reduce watering to every 14 days,
this helps encourage dormancy. In winter months, only water
as required. I have had good results with twenty five soakings
a year in a sub-tropical climate.
This is a good time to prepare the soil for new plantings
in July. Cultivate to around 50cm and add as much organic
matter thats available. Remove stakes from water shoots
that have flowered and stock pile. Disbud terminal buds on
clusters; remove side buds on large flowered roses. Clean
out any rubbish and twiggy growth from bushes; remove any
stems lacking vigour from their point of origin. Remove fallen
foliage and any debris especially that affected by disease
and burn where possible. Good garden hygiene helps prevent
fungal disease.
Check all ties on tree roses and climbers, replace as required.
This will reduce wind rock in autumn, especially if anchorage
is insufficient. Soil around the roots can be refirmed if
necessary.
Your regular fertilizer programme ROOT-FEED should
cease in or around March. Foliar soluble fertilizer feeding
can be used anytime to good advantage. This is a targeted
feed directed at the underside of the foliage on your plants.
Minor nutrient deficiencies can be remedied with foliar. Some
exhibitors use it shortly before a show as a "boost"
to the roses. Plants show a rapid response to foliar feeding
even under stress. Foliar should be considered as a supplement
to our ROOT fertilizing programme not a substitute. A word
of caution: be extra careful when reading the manufacturers
instructions. The chemical must be diluted properly on tender
young foliage to prevent burn, but still concentrated enough
for maximum effect. Foliar sprays are compatible with most
other chemical sprays.
As the days remain warm and nights get cooler and dewy, mildew
can become a problem. These are favourable conditions for
mildew spores to germinate. Use a systemic spray before leaf
distortion and signs of white powdery covering on foliage.
A systemic spray permeates the skin of the plant and moves
up and down the sap stream. Dont let fungal diseases
spoil your autumn flush of roses.
Pests are not a problem in the autumn months. Thrips, aphids
and caterpillars are rarely in plague proportions. However
if concerned, use an environmentally friendly contact spray
to keep at a minimum.
Try not to let spraying become an unpleasant chore. Rose breeders
are introducing hardier and disease resistant plants more
than ever before. Newer sprays are safer than ever (no D.D.T.),
introduced in the past. Spray equipment is greatly improved
and comes in all shapes and sizes. Rose growing is easy and
a very rewarding hobby. It is not unusual to have fragrant
fresh roses in the home for at least nine months of the year.
You are the rose doctor; you look after the plants the plants
look after the roses. Roses are grown from the TOP END of
Australia in the tropics, to the snowfields in the Snowy Mountains,
how good is that. It is worth mentioning the most elevated
public rose garden in the Southern Hemisphere is at Khancoban
in the Snowy.
New Rose catalogues are doing their rounds. Swanes have "Lavender
Simplicity" as a new release on the front cover. The
original "Pink Simplicity" released in 1978 has
now sported four times, namely, White, Red, Yellow, Lavender
and of course the parent "Pink Simplicity". All
varieties send out medium sized clusters with a nice fragrance.
I have seen this grown as a hedge and it was absolutely breathtaking.
A pleasant evening is assured browsing through these catalogues.
After the decisions are made, order as soon as possible to
avoid over ordering of popular varieties or substitutions.
Available to "Rose Society of NSW" members is a
discount on bare root roses, mail order or packaged from Swanes
nurseries. Good luck with the roses of your choice.
Our membership has increased considerably in recent years.
It would be nice to see as many members as possible visit
rose shows held in autumn. If you could exhibit (GREAT FUN)
some blooms it would be even more enjoyable. Remember there
is a lot more to showing roses than silverware and ribbons.
On top of the spectacular mass of colour, you meet and chat
to fellow rosarians with similar interests; you extend your
rose growing hobby. What happens when you win? I will let
you work that hard to explain BUG out for yourself. Now the
ball is in your court, let your feet follow your heart, give
it a go, you will not be disappointed.
Dates for your diary are in this magazine. The Royal Easter
Spectacular is on Easter Saturday, 7th. April. On this day
three NSW Rose Championships are on display and many other
classes. The NSW Rose Society and Neutrog are major sponsors
of these events. Let me thank all concerned on organizing
these events.
Happy rose growing to all rosarians.

Jim
Cunningham Cultural Notes - Summer 2006
The approach of summer, combined with wide spread drought
and dry conditions is a reminder we need to use water intelligently.
Roses respond noticeably to their watering needs. A good watering
should really soak the soil to allow the water to penetrate
the mulching material and sink right down to the root area.
A general guide is around 15 litres per sq. metre, covering
the whole rose bed; this is equivalent to approximately 40mm
per sq. metre. Continue this watering on a weekly basis during
the hot months; if any rain falls accept it as a bonus. Try
to water early morning. This will reduce evaporation. Any
splashback on the foliage or flowers will dry quickly; this
will reduce the incidence of fungal disease.
Good
soakings of water really will help push new growth from the
base. Water shoots will have emerged from some varieties.
These shoots usually come from the bud union or close above
it. Their growth is sappy in appearance and soft to touch.
A badly placed water shoot can be gently nudged to the outside
of the plant if necessary, but do not force it, or bend it.
Keep the shoot staked loosely until matured, twisties or old
pantyhose are handy as ties. Your best blooms will come from
these new shoots, they will also be the future framework,
and therefore must be nurtured. Never cut into a watershoot
even if it is crooked or badly placed, unless you intend to
remove it at its point of origin. To prune a watershoot after
it has flowered remove the central part of the truss, and
simply deadhead the remaining few stems, nature will do the
rest.
For a continuity of supply of beautiful flowers, you must
deadhead the bush on a regular basis. When the bloom is past
its best or spent, prune back to a strong bud, this will produce
another bloom in five to seven weeks. Only cut short stems
when deadheading in the hot months. The more foliage on your
bush the more flowers you will receive. If you are cutting
roses for a vase you can increase the stem length.
The hot weather and long hours of sunlight - the quicker the
growth on our bushes. Mulch and compost are excellent for
your garden; however they are not a substitute for a well-balanced
fertilizer. One clenched handful per bush is sufficient. Over
use of fertilizer is a waste and dangerous; because they are
organic does not mean they are safe. Nothing in excess is
"SAFE". Err on the safe side when fertilizing; a
little often is the rule of thumb. After fertilizing do not
forget to water in well.
Keep up your preventative measures for disease and pests.
Sam McGredy said "if you collect silver you have to be
prepared to polish it occasionally to keep it looking good,
for the same reason you should spray your roses." All
living things are subject to some disease; roses are no exception.
Are you happy with your newly planted roses this season? Keep
the roots nice and moist until they are established. Remove
spent blooms at the first node. Keep even twiggy growth on
your plant to help prevent sunburn on tender new canes. Give
a fertilizing in February. Your normal maintenance will commence
in their second season.
On the subject of new roses, why not give someone a special
rose for Christmas; Mothers Love, Warm Wishes, Many
Happy Returns, to name just a few. A living gift can be very
welcomed.
As this is your last N.S.W. Rose for the year, I would like
to wish you all a Happy Christmas and a safe New Year.
Jim Cunningham

Jim
Cunningham Cultural Notes - Spring 2006
Lets spring into action and talk
about the benefits of mulch. Most roses have shallow, fibrous
roots and they need copious amounts of mulch around the root
system. This is particularly important in our hot Australian
climate. Organic mulches on our soil will slowly break down
into humus. It will prevent water evaporation by at least
50%, it will act as a blanket against temperature changes,
and weed growth will be inhibited or stopped by denying them
light.
Mulching
will minimize suckering, and deter some pests from invading
the roses. It also offers a slow release nutrient source to
your plants. Your plants will be healthier and more disease
resistant.
I try to use a combination of mulching materials mixed together
at one time. This diversity will ensure a steady break down
of the mulch and a variety of nutrients to your plants. This
is similar to our forests where layers of bark, twigs, leaves
and animal manures are continuously recycled. With a small
amount of effort it is not difficult to achieve this goal.
For your effort you will enjoy bigger blooms of good quality.
Be sure the material used is open and pliable to allow air
and water to penetrate.
As we move into over drive in our throwaway society, composting
is even more desirable. Composting is one solution to our
slimy landfill sites; it also offers gardeners a good source
of soil nutrients. Most composting material is all around
us. Nearly anything which is biodegradable or was once living
can be used to compost. The following list is some of the
items you can use: - newspapers (shred and compost); vase
flowers; grass; weeds; leaves (all sorts); hedge trimmings;
twigs; pine needles; sawdust; vegetables (cooked and raw);
cereals and their boxes; fruit peelings; crushed egg shells;
tea bags and coffee grounds; dry dog food; out of date canned
food; frozen vegetables.
It is not possible to discuss in detail each of the above-mentioned
items, they are just some of the things you are likely to
have at hand. If unsure, ask yourself, has it ever grown?
If the answer is yes, compost it. Do finger nails and hair
grow? Compost it. Err on the safe side; keep dairy products
such as cheese and also meat out of the compost. Keep dog
and cat excrement out of the bin, they may contain harmful
bacteria or worm larvae. Any other manure can be composted.
The most nutritional being elephant manure! Where do you get
it? You are not only doing your plants a favour supplying
nutrients, rich compost also helps the environment you live
in. It is not surprising that humans are the only species
on earth that create rubbish! The well-made compost heap can
convert your "RUBBISH" into a good fertilizer and
an excellent soil improver. Now you know which bin to put
your organic materials in.
It looks like our spring flush is coming early this year.
As the foliage expands with the warmer weather, the feeder
roots begin to grow outwards. These very fine feeder roots
in established roses are regularly just under the soil surface;
this soil can be compacted and damaged during pruning. A gentle
forking of the soil will reduce this compaction and improve
aeration. On completion of cultivation, fertilize your bushes
at the drip line and water well. Now cover the bed with good
mulch to the depth of at least 10cms, to make it worthwhile.
Keep the mulch topped up as required. A mulching will also
save labour input later.
Strong growth is evident in September. Keep a watch for pests,
aphids in particular can appear in plague proportions and
should be checked as needed. Thrips will follow later, these
look like 1mm black slivers of timber, dont let them
spoil your biggest flush. Good success can be had using Confidor
as an insecticide. Red spider never fails to visit me yearly.
This pest will quickly defoliate your bushes. Micro pearl
like eggs under the foliage, minute webbing will also appear.
A miticide is used to rid this nuisance. Most insecticide
and miticides are compatible.
Keep your foliage green and free of fungi disease. Mildew
usually arrives with lush new growth. Black spot arrives some
weeks later. An early symptom of mildew is twisted and distorted
growth. Blackspot is self-explanatory. Black spots of various
sizes will appear or the upper leaf surface. Both these fungi
will be arrested completely if sprayed as the foliage expands
and no symptoms have appeared. A second spray ten to fourteen
days later will further retard spore germination. The secret
is to prevent rather than cure. A visit to your nearest "Produce"
supplier will guide you as to what is available.
Rose shows are held in spring, come and smell the fragrant
blooms, bring your friends. This is a good way of meeting
people with a similar interest. Ask questions, have a chat,
exchange ideas, enjoy your rose growing hobby, its all
pleasure.
Happy rose growing to all rosarians.

Jim Cunningham Cultural Notes -Winter 2006
Your new bare-root plants should be arriving soon. Give the
soil a final turnover and remove any weeds, all that should
remain is a fine tilth. This also an ideal time to shunt existing
plants to new positions if required.
When the roses arrive from the nursery, immerse them as deep
as possible in tubs of water over night to ensure the roots
are well hydrated. Remove each plant as required when the
planting hole has been prepared.Planting consists of digging
the hole wide and deep enough to allow the roots to spread
as they mature. The roots will move from the base and become
fibrous and lateral. The roots that arrive with bare root
roses are main roots, not feeding roots. Main roots send out
young root hairs, these will channel the soluble plant nutrients
to the rose. These roots anchor the bush as it grows against
storms etc. Any broken roots should be cut above that point,
trim the remaining roots, this will stimulate the plant. Now
make a cone shaped mound at the bottom of the hole. Radiate
the roots over the cone and backfill half way. Gently firm
the soil around the roots using yours fingers and hands. Fill
the hole with water gently shaking the understock with your
other hand to remove air bubbles and consolidate the soil.
Allow the water to soak away then fill the hole with soil
to ground level and water again. I like to leave the bud union
at least 2.5cms above soil level. This is done prior to any
back filling. Within six weeks eyes will swell and new growth
will take place.
Winter
pruning should commence after the incidence of frost has passed
in your area. In the Sydney region this is usually late July.Pruning
should be a pleasurable mid winters day spent in your
garden. The future success of your roses depends on correct
pruning. You will need sharp secateurs, pruning saw, long
handled [parrot] secateurs, strong gloves and perhaps knee
pads.When we prune we anticipate nature by removing old, dead,
spindly wood. Any branch lacking vigour is more harm than
useful. Cut any very old canes at their point of origin, leaving
no stubs for pests and diseases to harbor.Contrary to what
most people think, heavy pruning weakens rose bushes, not
strengthens them. Loss of good wood is food reserves lost.
This is where the term "moderate pruning" applies,
the cutting of the branches that are retained when pruning.
I cut according to the health and vigour of the plant. If
it has lots of healthy wood with plenty of eyes for future
quality blooms, why hack it off? Just trim to tidy its shape.
Keep as many strong branches as possible. Reduce these by
one third, cutting 5mm above an outward-facing eye, and at
a 45-degree angle away from the eye. No sealing of the cuts
is necessary. Look at the bush in a skeletonised shape. You
can still remove more if you want, but you cant put
it on. If you have three or more strong canes remaining on
each bush you are doing well. These basic steps apply to most
roses. Remember to check all ties on climbers, weepers and
tree roses. Replace them if needed.
Clean
up the rose beds removing diseased foliage and spent mulch.
Rose hygiene is a very effective way of controlling disease
and pests.
Your
next step is to thoroughly spray the bushes and all the rose
beds with lime sulphur. Take note of new instructions on lime
sulphur products and adhere to them. Sulphur can stain expensive
jewelry and other household items. Cover up as required.
In
these cooler months, as our rose growing hobby eases, we can
concentrate on maintenance of equipment and future planning.
Sprayers and mechanical aids in particular should be thoroughly
cleaned.Future planning means another compost bin in the garden.
As gardeners we know the key to healthy plants is well-nourished
healthy soil. No amount of fertilizer can make up for poor
soil. Compost continues feeding the soil even AFTER all of
the organic matter has rotted away. Compost bins are an essential
item in every home garden. Autumn leaves are now in abundance,
become a "LEAF FREAK" by stock piling them with
your grass clippings. Throwing this material away is the worst
kind of waste I know. Wood ash from open fires should also
be captured and used later. Composting will make you feel
better in yourself. If you dont already know it, find
out, you will soon get the message.
Now
with the long evenings upon us we have time to relax, reflect,
THE TIMES, THEY ARE
A-CHANGIN!
Happy
rose growing to all rosarians.
Jim
Cunningham

Jim
Cunningham Cultural Notes - Autumn 2006
Australia
had its hottest year on record in 2005. January started with
heat-wave conditions, 45C and above was recorded in the Sydney
area. No amount of water could keep the roses thriving. Mine
stood up pretty well thanks to heavy mulching. It also helps
to retain as much foliage as possible during the summer months;
even twiggy growth will provide some shelter for the more
productive growth below. A few scorched leaves are easier
replaced than burnt stems. Your autumn flush should be nearly
here. Keep up your spray programme for fungal diseases, and
keep your bushes watered weekly up to blooming time. It is
advisable not to feed your roses any more this season; however
a foliar feed every fourteen days will be beneficial.
New rose catalogues will be arriving from the various nurseries.
More than likely we will be tempted to purchase some variety.
Keep in mind when ordering, that the coloured pictures are
usually enhanced. I also have doubts about the fragrance rating.
If possible try to see the variety somewhere local. Alternatively,
visit one of the many rose shows held at this time of year.
This will give you some idea if its good for exhibiting
or if it is a good garden grower. If your garden is reasonably
full but you still want to try something new, put it in a
pot. This is a good way to access its potential over a growing
season. If it performs to your liking plant it out with the
rest of your babies. This method of container planting has
worked well for me. Perhaps you can try it and see if it works
for you. If you decide to plant in existing beds remove any
passengers now. Remove as many roots as possible to prevent
suckering in spring time. On completion, you will need to
rejuvenate the soil. A good horticulturist will always say
"prepare, prepare, prepare". You will not get better
advice than that.
Ideally roses should be planted in at least 50cm of good soil.
Turn the soil with a fork, breaking any lumps with the back
of the fork. Incorporate as much manure as possible. A clenched
handful of super phosphate per sq mtr can be added. When the
soil is at the required level and the tilth is satisfactory
cover with a mulch of good compost and leaf mould. There is
no need to dig this in; earthworm activity will do this for
you. This should happen at least six weeks before planting
[six months is not too early]. When it comes to planting [June,
July], your soil will be ready for your roses. They will bolt
away in front of you. Soil that is properly prepared will
always give you good rewards no matter what you plant.
Keep the soil around new plants firm and moist until the feeding
roots have become established. Keep well mulched. Do not feed
with manures or fertilizers until late February. This will
eliminate any possibility of burning new hair like feeding
roots. Sufficient nutrients should be in the soil to sustain
and support good growth until at least February. To further
stimulate new growth just snap off spent flowers at the first
node. This applies to tiny miniatures or rampant climbers.
I hope your choice is a worthy addition to your garden.
The planting of tree roses are the same, however you will
need to hammer a wooden stake in firmly before you plant.
The stake should face north/north west to help shade the stem
in hot weather. The stake should be 2.5cm BELOW the bud union
so as not to inhibit new growth from the union. When tying
the rose to the stake make it firm but loose. Never use more
than ONE tie. This should be 5cm below the stake, the reason
being if a second tie is used lower down and the top tie snaps
in strong wind, the stem of the tree rose could break at the
lower tie. Hardwood stakes are recommended and old panty hose
can be used as a tie. Order your mail order roses
as soon as you make up your mind. Don't wait too long as popular
varieties sell out quickly. The last things we want are substitutes
for our chosen varieties. If this happens [and it does], it
can be very frustrating and time wasted.
During the cooler autumn weather spend some extra time enjoying
the colourful blooms you will see all season. Test the fragrance,
cut long stemmed roses for indoor decoration or for friends.
Have fragrant roses beside your phone; bury your nose in them
while talking. Your garden is for pleasure not penance, enjoy
it. Happy rose growing to all rosarians.
Jim
Cunningham

Cultural
Notes June, July and August 2005
Winter
is a good time to work in the garden and we should also take
the opportunity to evaluate our situation. Earlier in the
year we held some optimism for a break in the drought but
unfortunately it has tightened its grip and in most areas
our plants are struggling. We need to consider which of our
roses are best coping with the situation and the positions
in our gardens which are giving most protection. Hope springs
eternal and we will no doubt make new plantings this season.
When doing this we will need to make careful plans.
With the adverse weather there is the temptation to discard
roses which have not performed as expected. However we need
to be patient as it is unlikely that all of our plants will
be at their best at the same time. It is well recognized that
some cultivars are better in the Spring whilst others thrive
in the Autumn. In cases where the plant is obviously inferior
and has been given a good trial then remove it and try again.
Neighbouring plants can also be a factor as they draw nutrients
and moisture from the soil. It could be that you need to reposition
some roses in another part of the garden. This is the best
time of the year to move plants. Prepare the new site thoroughly
then dig a circle around the rose so that you retain a strong
root base when lifting. Trim any damaged roots before positioning
in the new site. In April I was fortunate to be given some
bushes of considerable size. I made sure that they did not
dry out in transit and planted them soon after digging. Because
of their size the roses were staked so that they will not
move around in the wind. In addition each plant received a
bucket of water mixed with Natrakelp, the liquid seaweed product.
At the time of writing the results are very encouraging. I
now intend moving some other plants to more favourable beds.
The competition from large trees can be very strong.
By now you have probably ordered your new cultivars and await
their arrival. However there is still time to place orders
with a specialist rose nursery or perhaps find a treasure
in the local garden centre or chain store. The advantage with
the specialists is that you can obtain cultivars which are
recent releases or still under plant breeders rights.
If buying from a shopping centre beware of plants which have
been held for some time and have developed long pale shoots.
Even so, there are some good purchases to be made at such
places and the range of cultivars can be surprising.
Time spent preparing the garden is important. A minimum of
six hours sunlight is required to encourage the roses to grow.
At the same time it is an advantage for them to be protected
from winds which have a drying effect. The hot winds can be
particularly harmful when combined with days of extreme temperature.
Choose a position where you would be happy to sit on a chair
but remember that the rose cannot move. The soil should be
cultivated to a fine tilth so that it will support the rose,
yet allow air and water to circulate freely. The hole should
be comfortably larger than the roots with consideration given
to depth and width. The rose should be placed on top of a
fist of soil at the bottom of the hole which is dug. The roots
are then able to radiate into the surrounding area. Partially
fill with soil and then water well. Consider the use of a
seaweed mix to stimulate the roots. Then complete by filling
the hole. Remember to water regularly as it takes some time
for the rose to become established.
Probably more questions are asked about pruning than of any
other aspect of rose culture. There is no need for it to be
seen as confronting as it is a fairly simple task with no
absolute rights or wrongs. The correct equipment will assist
greatly. Sharp secateurs, lopping shears, pruning saw, leather
gloves (or gauntlets) and protective clothing including a
hat are all helpful. The following comments apply to modern
bush roses.
Firstly, remove all dead and spindly growth. Then cut a little
less than a centimetre above buds on stems of approximately
pencil thickness. It has been traditional to recommend pruning
to an outwards growing shoot but this is not essential. The
key is to find buds which will produce good growth. It is
likely that you will need to clear some canes out of the centre
of the structure if it is conjested. Basal shoots which grew
during the last season should be lightly trimmed at the top
as to cut into the main stem can lead to dieback. Remember
that the basal (or water) shoots grow from above the bud union.
Unwanted suckers come from the rootstock, have different foliage
and appear from below the bud union.
Miniatures can be treated in a similar way in terms of clearing
out the rubbish but there is no need to tediously trim each
stem to a bud. A general haircut will suffice. Most of the
new flowers will come from new growth developing from the
base. Because their growth and flowering habits are so different
it is difficult to make general comments about pruning climbers
and heritage roses. The aim should be tidy the plant and stimulate
growth. This stimulation should occur shortly before the rose
is ready to produce flowers.
With regards to most garden roses it is not necessary to prune
before late July or early August. In areas prone to heavy
frosts early pruned roses could see young shoots damaged.
When pruning is completed an application of winter strength
lime sulphur could be sprayed to kill off fungal spores which
remain on the canes and the surrounding soil.
This is a good time to service garden equipment. Spray units
can fail to operate properly if residue is allowed to build
up. Clean the tank and the spray lance and you will notice
a big improvement in the coming season. Tools can be wiped
down and handles coated with linseed oil. Hoes and spades
will last for many years if well maintained. I have a hoe
which my grandfather used on his dahlias in the early part
of the last century.
Continue to access your watering needs and how you apply it
to the garden. Consider dripper systems, recycling, tanks,
mulching and protective screens. Remember that to any problem
there is always a solution.

Cultural
Notes March, April and May 2005
With an easing of the drought in some areas of the state we
have been encouraged by a better performance of roses in our
gardens. For too long our plants have been in survival mode
and our expectations were limited. It is an old adage, but
there is nothing like rain to make things grow. We hope that
the many members who are still enduring drought conditions
and water restrictions will be rewarded for their patience.
Recent times have proven that we can never depend entirely
on rainfall to support our gardens and the need to have reasonable
rain and effective watering systems in place has been very
obvious. The coming months should provide us with numerous
blooms to enjoy and hopefully share with others.
Autumn tends to be kinder on our roses than the other seasons.
The cooling temperatures, less likelihood of strong winds
and less insect activity all contribute to this situation.
To offset these advantages the fungal diseases can become
more prevalent in coastal areas. Caterpillars like lush new
growth and if there are only a few they can be removed by
hand. With large infestations contact your garden centre for
an effective product. Insect problems tend to vary according
to the location. For me, hibiscus beetle continues to be a
nuisance but regular spraying can control them. It is important
to spray the buds as they are showing colour because once
the flower is open the damage will have occurred. Like most
people I try to avoid using toxic materials and it is now
possible to obtain products on the safer end of the scale.
Because problems tend to be localised it is advisable to consult
your local garden centre for solutions to pest infestations.
Integrated Pest Management is a programme which is being embraced
by commercial operations. For some time our friends who grow
roses for a living have sought methods to successfully produce
blooms in enclosed environments. Predator mite have controlled
the two-spotted mite and other problems have been minimised
using natural means. The growers have selected cultivars which
are resistant to pests and diseases and have vigour superior
to earlier favourites. The advantages of a more natural environment
are obvious. Spraying can be very expensive and special measures
must be in place to ensure the safety of the operators. Floraco
at Leppington is one of the largest commercial cut flower
growers in NSW and I have been fortunate to organise a visit
to their extensive property in May. Details of this day appear
elsewhere in this magazine. We are fortunate to learn the
methods of the people who depend on their efficiency for a
living.
The cooler nights and warm days can lead to fungal diseases.
It has been the practice of many rosarians to spray with a
fungicide to control blackspot and powdery mildew. Fungicides
can control these foliage diseases if applied fortnightly.
My recent contact with the University of Western Sydney has
provided encouraging news about the use of pest oil as an
alternative. I hope to have further news on this angle shortly.
I have always taken the view that there is no one way to successfully
raise plants or animals. It is a case of "what works
for me". With the anticipated input from experts I am
confident that we can combine our best practices with the
proven methods of the professionals. By installing dripper
systems in our gardens we have already taken a step down that
path. I have noticed a considerable decline in fungal diseases
since changing to this method of watering. It could also be
related to the use of Sudden Impact as a fertiliser. Tasks
which we perform in the garden are not done in isolation.
They impact on other factors. By way of example, if we apply
fertiliser we must water thoroughly. Otherwise the roots will
be damaged and the nutrients will not be taken up by the plant.
There is no harm in giving the roses a boost in early autumn
but there is little point in promoting growth in May. It is
still important to give the plants due care in late autumn
and early winter. A setback at this time of year will carry
over to the next season.
It is not too early to make preparations for the selection
and planting of new roses. A visit to shows and nurseries
will give you a chance to view the best of the flowers. Send
for the catalogues from specialist rose nurseries to assist
you with your choice. Dig the garden where you intend to plant
the new roses. Allow plenty of space for each plant and be
prepared to turn the soil on a number of occasions.
There is always plenty to do in a garden and there is always
plenty to think about. Whether you are a doer or a thinker
I hope that you enjoy your gardening in the coming months.

Cultural
Notes for December 2004, January and February 2005
With good late spring rains most gardeners can approach summer
with more confidence than has been the case in the last few
years. The subsoil should be moist and the roots should be
happier, particularly if we continue mulching. Water storage
levels and water restrictions will also be factors which will
affect our garden management and our ability to keep our roses
flourishing.
The health of the roses in South Australia was eye-catching.
Of course, the drier climate which is similar to some of our
country areas is better in terms of fungal diseases but their
success goes beyond climatic advantages. Sudden Impact has
been used extensively as their fertiliser of choice and our
SA colleagues are convinced of its effectiveness. Prior to
its introduction the Rose Society of South Australia had worked
with Neutrog to devise the best formula. The use of water
storing crystals and foliar fertilisers can further strengthen
the supply of nutrients to our plants.
It can be tempting to apply more fertiliser than is recommended
but this can be counter-productive. The companies which market
products have done extensive trials and they make suggestions
as to how we should use them. In some ways it would be in
their interests for us to use larger quantities but they know
that we will be satisfied if our plants are at their best.
Summer is the most critical season for our mulch to be in
place. Continue to compost at home and be on the lookout for
additional sources. I heard of another one recently, whereby
stable manure can be obtained from some horse racing trainers.
In many cases they are happy to dispose of the bedding and
it is a case of us taking a trailer and collecting it. This
is usually loose and friable and does not pack on the surface
of our gardens as is sometimes the case with other materials.
At times I have heard the suggestion that newspaper be applied
to the surface but thick sheets can form a barrier to the
penetration of water.
Much has been said about water in recent times. In short,
use it responsibly and effectively. Without it our roses will
quickly decline. Only grow as many plants as you can comfortably
manage. There are no prizes for the garden with the most plants.
Another lesson from SA was the extensive use of pillar and
climbing roses. They are space savers and produce more flowers
than their bush cousins. It was surprising the number of climbing
miniatures on show. We can enhance our garden design and at
the same time be waterwise.
The prevention of pests and diseases is always a talking point
amongst all gardeners. The most impressive garden which I
saw in SA requires very little maintenance in that area. The
roses are sprayed twice in early spring to protect against
fungal diseases and not again for the remainder of the growing
period. There is very little trouble with insects and the
few thrips which appear in the spring are tolerated. The quality
of the blooms was outstanding and the plants were vigorous.
This supports our notion that strong healthy plants are more
likely to resist problems.
Because of our more humid climate it is recommended that we
spray fortnightly with a fungicide to prevent blackspot and
powdery mildew. I recently read a very interesting article
on the use of pest oil on roses. This product has been very
successful in the treatment of leaf miner on citrus trees
and most importantly it is environmentally friendly. I have
made contact with a professor at the University of Western
Sydney and he kindly forwarded an extensive report of his
facultys research on the use of pest oil to control
powdery mildew, blackspot and two-spotted mite on roses. The
trials have been conducted with commercial rose growers and
it appears that we will be able to use pest oil as an alternative
to fungicides (with the added bonus of beating the mite).
Professor Beattie is keen to become involved with the Rose
Society and I hope to be able to have further discussions
in the coming weeks.
If you are planning to exhibit roses at the autumn shows it
will be necessary to summer prune earlier than most years
because Easter falls in March in 2005. For some cultivars
we need to allow about eight weeks from pruning to flowering
but with others it can take as little as six weeks. Accurate
record keeping over a number of years would help us to obtain
flowers when we need them. For a steady supply of flowers
deadhead regularly and cut the stems to a similar length as
if cutting for the vase. There is no mystery about summer
trimming. It involves removing spent blooms and any weak,
useless wood. It is not as dramatic as winter pruning but
helps to stimulate the rose to produce good autumn blooms.
To our many new members please feel free to seek advice from
your fellow rosarians.
Attendance
at meetings will also provide those opportunities. Often the
most benefits from a meeting can be the informal chat at supper
or afternoon tea.

Cultural
Notes for Sept 2004 to November 2004:
Cultural
notes provides helpful information on all facets of rose growing.
Following this quarters notes are links to cultural notes
for this and previous corresponding periods. They are in PDF
format, so if you do not have Acrobat Reader installed follow
the link at the bottom of the home page.
Hope
springs eternal! With the arrival of a new season we look
forward to vigorous plants and colourful blooms. For the greater
part of NSW we enjoy distinct seasons and can appreciate the
changes as the year progresses. Our roses will only show vigour
if the weather conditions are conducive and if we do all that
we can to enhance their growth. The first factor is, of course,
beyond our control but there are many ways that we can use
our skill as gardeners.
For some time most of NSW has been in the grip of drought
and it has been discouraging for those of us who view gardening
as a relaxing and worthwhile recreation. It would be easy
to give in to the water restrictions and political masters
who are encouraging us to grow solely native plants. The good
times will come again and together with better managed water
resources we will find our gardens flourishing. There are
lessons which we can learn from the recent experiences.
Mulching is vital to retain soil moisture levels. Organic
materials which are loose in texture and can be loaded onto
the garden in depth prevent the soil from being baked by the
hot sun. They are also helpful in countering the effects of
wind, which I consider to be enemy number one in any garden.
I recently obtained a load of stable manure from a friend.
It is basically a mix of horse manure and urine, straw and
rice hulls. It is noticeable that the soil beneath this mulch
is moister than some neighbouring beds. Such a soil environment
will encourage valuable micro-organisms. On other occasions
I have obtained loads of duck manure which is also a good
mulch. It does need to be cultivated from time to time because
the surface can become impervious to water.
The
manure from my poultry can also be used for this purpose but
not to the same depth because it is richer and could burn.
I recently watched Peter Cundall planting potatoes and he
covered the tubers with a massive amount of sheep manure.
Obviously this must have been well-composted. Cow manure is
another excellent alternative as it provides considerable
nutrient as well as mulching benefits. Lucerne in the form
of easy to handle cubes or bales is another organic material
which gives good results.
For
many of us the first book on roses which we bought was "Better
Roses" by A.S. Thomas. This was, and remains, one of the most
authoritative books written about roses but it is interesting
to note that the index makes no mention of mulching. With
the move towards an organic approach to gardening and the
recognition of water conservation we now find gardening experts
writing chapters on mulching. It is a case of mulch and tolerate
the weeds which sometimes germinate. The backyard compost
heap is another excellent source of organic material. Those
members who have been fortunate to hear the excellent presentation
from Jim Cunningham on this subject will be aware of the many
benefits of compost.
Statistics indicate that two out of three households now recycle
kitchen scraps and garden waste.
In recent times much has been written about the supply and
application of water. For those people on town water drip
irrigation has proved to be an efficient way of watering.
Restrictions have made it very difficult to rely solely on
using a hose. In areas where the water shortage is critical
it is a case of helping the roses to survive until the good
times return.
Provided
that you are able to water the plants properly, Spring is
the right time to apply fertiliser. Some rosarians recommend
larger amounts early in the season and again in late summer.
When conditions have been favourable I have applied a smaller
quantity at the beginning of each month. My thinking is that
the plants will continue at a regular rate of progress, provided
that summer temperatures do not become extreme.
There
are a number of excellent products on the market including
'Sudden Impact for Roses'and others advertised from time to
time in this magazine. Remember that foliar feeding has the
benefit of quicker availability to the plant. It can also
be applied in conjunction with most other sprays.
Virtually all plants are at some time affected by pests and
diseases and roses are no exception. The healthier we can
grow our roses the more likely it is that they will be able
to resist these problems. This is particularly the case with
fungal diseases. Blackspot and powdery mildew will quickly
emerge on leaves which are stressed. These diseases have continued
to be evident during the course of the drought. The more humid
climate of coastal areas encourages the spores which lead
to fungal problems.
A
variety of products are available in garden centres to assist
us to control blackspot. By spraying at approximately fortnightly
intervals our roses should retain their healthy, glossy foliage.
Early Spring infestations of aphides are common and user friendly
sprays can be obtained to stop them sucking the goodness out
of the plants. Otherwise they can be washed off with a burst
from the hose, restrictions permitting. Later in the season
thrip can appear overnight, driven in by hot westerly winds.
They are small insects which damage the petals and discolour
flowers. Frequent applications of insecticide may give some
protection. Fortunately, a well maintained garden is unlikely
to encounter all of the pests which can trouble us.
Continue
to cut blooms as they mature so that others will follow them.
Some cultivars such as Peter Frankenfeld repeat in about six
weeks. One of the reasons that we grow roses is because they
are so generous, so give them every encouragement.
Let us hope that the coming months will see improved weather
conditions and many colourful blooms in our gardens.
Best
wishes to all rosarians,
Graham Wright
Note : Graham is a Rose Judge and A Grade exhibitor with much
success at State and National Level.
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